http://forum.tileshop.com/recent.aspx The Tile Shop Forum - Recent Posts en-us http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Jitbit AspNetForum Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:36:42 GMT Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:36:42 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=26
You could do either: mud a bit more to make the slope meet the wall - or - backbutter your tiles that go over the level portions to create a slight pitch. I suggest you mud the last part and be confident you have sloped the whole base correctly.]]> Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:36:42 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=26
The final base-tile layer of the shower pan has dried about 24 hours. I found an area of level slope along the outside (it was a little tricky because of rectangle shape). Its about a six inch by twelve inch area that I overlooked as I started doing more harm than good to the surface.

Time is not a problem, what is the best way to correct? Can I use a thin layer of MIchigan Mud? Otherwise the thin-set?

Thanks!]]> Mon, 16 Nov 2009 20:28:29 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=25 I tnink there is a slight slope from on side of the pro curb to the other. But , Yes, if you want to make sure that the top of the shower curb slopes towards the shower, then I would put a shim on the outside of the curb.

If you want, you can secure the curb to the wall you can do so as well. I would if it was my project, it is better to be sake than sorry. But in most cases the weight of the floor mix, and the is all it calls for.

I hope this helps, let us know if you have any other questions.]]> Sat, 14 Nov 2009 08:55:55 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=25
1. The DIY video and brochure indicate that the pro curb is tapered. I've studied both sides and can't see a difference. Is there a taper, and if so what should I look for?
2. If there is no taper should I shim under one side or just install it square and taper the top tile.
3. Does the pro curb attach to anything, or is the weight and grip of the michigan mud to the tar-paper enough?

Thanks!]]> Fri, 13 Nov 2009 21:32:12 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=24 I like the idea of the horizontal 2x4 and contruction adhesive to adhere the seat to the board..

2. I would use silicone around the edge of the notch, rather than contruction adhesive.

Thanks again for the question,

Carl]]> Fri, 13 Nov 2009 08:52:29 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=24
1. Would you recommend that I use construction adhesive between the back edge of the seat and the vertical 2x4's? Or maybe add a horizontal 2x4 for more adhesion?
2. Would it help to add construction adhesive around the seat to the cement board notch?

Thanks,

Eric]]> Fri, 13 Nov 2009 07:08:52 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=24 These are great questions.
1. Rush River Stone shower seats can hold up to 300 lbs.
2. To install the seat, make a notch in the cement board. try to make the slot tight to the seat.Install the seat into the notch and tile around the seat. Make sure you allow for a slight slope so water can drain off the seat. After the tile is grouted, use 100 % silicone to caulk around the seat.]]> Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:40:51 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=24
I have not seen clear instructions or DIY video on the strongest installation of the bench. Such as

1. What carries the weight?
2. Do I use adhesive direct to the framing? Vertical framing or would it be better to put in some horizontal boards at the right height?
3. How tight should I make the rockboard cut-out? Does that support some of the weight? Should I cut the slot at an angle?

Thanks

epk]]> Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:09:04 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=23
Thanks,
Dan]]> Thu, 12 Nov 2009 12:11:43 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=23
In that case, slope the pitch as much as you can. You will need to periodically clear the water and/or snow during the heavy weather months.]]> Thu, 12 Nov 2009 11:27:38 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=23 I won't be able to build up a mud floor greater than 3/4" for slope as the tile would be above the door sills.

It is a porch with a roof overhead; it isn't a 3-season screened in porch.

Thanks,
Dan]]> Thu, 12 Nov 2009 07:15:15 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=23
This would be the best method if you want the water to drain off your porch. But are you able to do this with only 1" to play with. The mud floor has to be a min thickness of 3/4". The tile and adhesive will be another 3/8". That doesn't leave much room for drainage.

Is this a 3 season screened in porch ?]]> Wed, 11 Nov 2009 11:41:42 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=23 Both The Tile Shop and the installer are correct. The safest altenative is to "slope the floor". However, this would be difficult using 1/4 " durock. I would recommed installing a mud ( cement and sand mix) subfloor, starting at the door jam, and gently sloping towards where you would like the water to drain. I would then use our Pro Shield over the top of the subfloor to waterproof and act as a anti fracture membrane to minimize any chance of cracking because of movement of the structure.

We have a picture of a screened in porch on our web site on page 7 of our Distinctive Places galley that is very similaer to the projoct you are working on. The floor was framed with 2x12's, and 3/4 " green treates plywood, with durock used as the subfloor for the natural stone slate tile on the floor. The similarity is this project is in Minnesota, and is exposed to harsh conditions. To this date the prorch project still looks great with no problems. It is your choice with method to use, but we have found the mud floor option to be the best.
edited by The Tile Shop on 11/11/2009]]> Wed, 11 Nov 2009 09:46:03 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=23
The problem is there is no slope to the floor, and exterior door sills are only an inch or so above the treated plywood.

The sales person at the local Tile Shop insists I can install 1/4" cement board above the plywood, paint a rubber waterproofing membrane over, then install the porcelain tile with their Superior Pro-lastic polymer mortar approved for exterior use. I would like to do this, however, local installers and further internet research say that tile should not be installed outdoors without slope of 1/4" per foot. Even though the porch is covered, there will be driving rain and snow that may end up on the tile floor.

Your advise is sincerely appreciated.
__________________
dan]]> Wed, 11 Nov 2009 08:39:34 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=22 http://www.tileshop.com/storelocator/index.aspx , or call our customer service line at: 1.888.389.6595

The Tile Shop Customer Service Team]]> Tue, 06 Oct 2009 08:36:29 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=22 Sun, 04 Oct 2009 11:19:24 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=20 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 20:43:08 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=11 Thu, 27 Aug 2009 08:20:25 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=10
I'm very new at this!]]> Thu, 06 Aug 2009 08:35:50 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=9
Thank you for an excellent question.
Tile Shop customer service]]> Thu, 04 Jun 2009 11:33:29 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=9
Thanks.

chris]]> Wed, 03 Jun 2009 20:28:28 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=8
-The Tile Shop CUstomer Service Desk]]> Fri, 22 May 2009 13:22:31 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=8 Sat, 16 May 2009 15:51:38 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=7
There are a few factors that would cause a slower drying time. From all the information that you've shared it sound like the product is working - albeit a bit slower then usual. If you have anymore concerns, don't hesitate to ask.

-The The Shop Customer Service Desk]]> Mon, 27 Apr 2009 10:11:06 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=7 Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:29:03 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=7
How did you apply the Pro-Shield? It may be that you applied a thicker layer then needed thus taking longer to harden.

-The The Shop Customer Service Desk]]> Tue, 21 Apr 2009 11:28:57 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=7
KPH]]> Mon, 20 Apr 2009 16:22:06 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=4 Mon, 30 Mar 2009 13:59:30 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=5
You definitely need to seal your stone. We suggest using Superior Premium Gold Sealer for Travertine - it protects and maintains the natural stone look of your new floor. Make sure you rub the sealer into the stone to prevent pooling and wipe of any sealer on the stone 15 minutes after sealer application. Use our Pro Sponge to apply the sealer.

Ask us if you have any more questions -or- head to our DIY page on The Tile Shop webpage to answer any problems you may encounter.

-The Tile Shop Customer Service Desk]]> Mon, 30 Mar 2009 13:58:56 GMT http://forum.tileshop.com/messages.aspx?TopicID=1
Thanks for your interest in our stone listellos, & great question!

Mixing stone and ceramic is a big trend right now. It is an great way to add natural elements to your space, while working with a budget. Ceramic is a traditionally the most economic tile option, but natural stone adds the most value.

Using a stone listello or accent piece with ceramic wall or floor tile is a great way to add a focal point to your space. A listello border adds texture and depth to any design.

Be sure to remember when mixing ceramic with listellos it is often a good idea to add a profile where the two coverings meet, as the thickness of the stone and ceramic may not be the same. Check out the link below for the various types, colors, and finishes of profiles available at The Tile Shop. The most popular profiles used when ceramic and a stone listello meet are the Sommerset & the Durand Pencils.

link

Thanks!
-The Tile Shop]]> Mon, 30 Mar 2009 11:27:41 GMT